Just over a week ago, I was on top of Pen y Fan in Wales being buffeted by the wind, surrounded by a fast moving, swirling mist; my waterproof coat flapping wildly, my glasses covered with droplets of rain and yet with the biggest grin on my face.
Our week away in wonderful Wales already seems an age ago, but it was a much needed break away that we weren’t sure was even going to happen a few weeks back.
It all turned out ok in the end and we had a really restorative time away. I took a sketchbook away with me, but I didn’t even take it out of my bag…I was happy to just ‘be’ for a week.
I’d love to share our walks with you, so read on if you’d like to experience a bit of Wales!
Walking for miles…
We chased waterfalls, meandered along beautiful rivers, strode out across moorland and climbed hills and ridges.
The weather was mixed, but we went prepared with waterpoofs and didn’t let a bit of rain stop us from exploring the wonderful landscape.
We stayed in a ‘perfect for two’ cottage on a remote sheep farm in the Brecon Beacons, or Bannau Brycheiniog as it should be referred to now.
Our first day we walked across moorland from Ystradfellte. It was an atmospheric landscape, littered with limestone boulders and interestingly part of the walk followed a well preserved old Roman road, Sarn Helen, which linked South and North Wales.
When the rain and mist cleared there were wonderful views across the valley of the River Neath…we even came across a Standing stone (Maen Madoc).
We didn’t see another soul for the entirety of this walk…but we were thrilled to have the company of circling red kites. I couldn’t really capture them with the phone camera, but we were happy to just stand quietly and observe them in their natural environment.
Our second day we ventured on a 10 mile waterfalls walk. It was quite strenuous but was quite wonderful at the same time. The first part of the walk was part of the more popular tourist trail, although not too busy thankfully, to see the 4 main waterfalls, but the second part was a much quieter riverside walk. We had to walk behind the impressive Sgwd yr Eira waterfall to continue with our circular walk which was a bit of a thrill! Lots of up and down paths, rather a lot of mud and stream crossing and we ended the day with tired legs but full hearts…and grateful for a hot cup of tea when we got back to our cottage!
Our third day was a ‘good weather’ day, so we went to Llyn y Fan Fach to do a circular walk up high for some views…and wow, what a walk! Possibly my favourite from the week with a steep climb to the top of a ridge which rewarded us with amazing views along the sweeping, craggy escarpments and beyond. The steep slopes were dotted with death-defying sheep (see if you can spot them in the photos!) and there were plenty of red kite sightings.
It was a vertiginous hike along the ridge and the breeze had a cold bite to it - luck would have it there was a stone circular shelter on top that we hunkered down behind to have our packed lunch with a wonderful view of the surrounding countryside. We couldn’t have picked a better day for this walk - and it was a bonus that we didn’t need to wear waterproof trousers!
Our fourth day and the forecast was for heavy rain in the afternoon, so we set off in good time in the morning for an 8 mile walk across Mynydd Illtud and Cefn Llechid. This took us across common land, farmland and wooded valleys; along sunken paths lined with rowan trees dripping in red berries and old, grassy drove roads. Once again, we didn’t see anyone else on this walk…maybe it was a quieter time of year, or maybe we were wise in our choice of walks!
One section cut across marshland near a farm and I was pleasantly surprised at how many swallows there were, swooping and diving like daredevil stunt planes feeding on the wing. The swallows at home on our farm in West Cornwall had already left on their migratory travels before our trip to Wales so it was lovely to have an extended chance to watch them perform their impressive aerial acrobatics - such incredible birds.
A bow across the sky Another in the river, Whence swallows upward fly, Like arrows from a quiver. (Archery by John B. Tabb)
Across the common, bracken had been cut into rows, possibly ready for baling. There were sheep around every corner, as you might imagine and we saw more red kites at closer quarters on this day, circling silently with their distinctive forked tail constantly adjusting their trajectory like a rudder - fabulous! We walked by many remote farms with views out across the valley - we imagined how challenging it must be living in some of these places in the midst of winter.
We were within a mile of finishing our walk when the heavy rain arrived - and of course we were on high ground with little shelter; great timing! However, we quickly whipped on our waterproof trousers and marched on, heads into the wind and rain along the final stretch.
What’s the saying? There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing?
Our fifth day and the weather forecast had changed from bright to pretty bad so we decided to postpone our final walk and have a quieter day. We drove into Brecon town and had a mooch…and no trip away is complete without me purchasing some pottery which I bought from the Found Gallery. I do have a bit of a weakness for jugs and may need to put up some more shelving at home to accommodate my growing collection, but I’m very happy with my Nick Membery vessel (though I’m sure I saw my hubby raise his eyebrows when I picked it out as if to say…”Another jug??”). I could have a worse addiction!
Our final day and the weather played ball so we could do a circular walk taking in the Brecon Beacons Horseshoe which includes the three main peaks of Cribyn, Pen y Fan and Corn Du.
The drive to our starting point was along a long, winding, narrow single track road with high hedges and with literally no passing places - I think I held my breath all the way!! Luckily, we got away without meeting another vehicle!
We began the walk in sunshine and the steady climb up gave us wonderful views of the peaks ahead. However, just as we neared the top of Pen y Fan, the mist rolled in with drizzle and the wind picked up…we could hardly see 20 feet ahead of us. We pushed on to the summit where it was blowing a hooley with a biting wind…but determined to get ‘the view’ we waited around for 5 minutes to see if the mist would clear. It did clear momentarily…just long enough to see the amazing vista before us before the fog shrouded us once again. It was so windy as we walked between Pen y Fan and Corn Du; I was sure I was going to get blown off the hillside like an empty crisp packet!
As the path dropped down below the level of mist, the fine weather gradually returned and we had a very enjoyable walk down the valley to pass a lake nestled within its own natural amphitheater where there were a group of ponies stood like stone statues, backs to the wind. Further down we found a most agreeable picnic spot on a fallen tree with views back up toward the peaks with a couple of waterfalls and again, circling red kites to watch. Our walk continued riverside…very peaceful and a wonderful end to our week of walking in Wales.
Although it wasn’t quite the end of our break - we made a diversion on the way home to visit our daughter and her boyfriend, which was quite fortuitous as she had just heard on our final day in Wales that she had been successful with a job interview! Hooray! It’s been a long summer of applying for jobs after finishing her Masters degree in Physiotherapy but all that hard work and interview experience has led to a role as a Paediatric Physiotherapist which is a job she’s really looking forward to starting.
It was so lovely to be there with them to help celebrate.
Well done Jenna; so well deserved and we’re so proud…and relieved!!
Grounding and gratitude
Momentarily back to Wales, there is something about these big open landscapes that not only never fail to inspire me but to also ground me. It struck me stood on top of a mountain, looking out across this beautiful landscape, that this is really what it’s all about. We are, after all, part of nature and it’s so important to make efforts to stay connected with the natural world. A mountain, or vast moorland, makes you feel like a speck of dust, insignificant, which of course in reality is what we are!
I kind of despair of us humans as a species sometimes…but in a world tainted with turmoil and horror, I am wholly grateful that I live where I live and that we have the freedom to take a little holiday to Wales and appreciate this fabulous place. It’s easy to take it all for granted. How lucky are we?
I’d also like to take a moment to show gratitude to my 52 year old body - it’s been 15 years since we last walked in the Brecon Beacons and despite carrying a little extra weight now and having numerous body image hang-ups as I get older, my body served me well walking for miles day after day, climbing up, climbing down and climbing over without complaint. I should give my body more credit than I do; maybe concentrate more on what it can do for me rather than what it looks like!
Practicing gratitude is so important…I’m generally a very ‘cup half full’ sort of person but there are always times when you have to stop, acknowledge and remind yourself of the positive things you have in your life.
Our trip to Wales certainly gave us the time and headspace to do exactly that after what’s been a bit of a whirlwind of a summer.
Do you practice gratitude? What are you most grateful for today?
If you got this far, thanks so much for reading and I hope you enjoyed reliving some of my recent journey through Wales!
Best wishes
Tanya xx
I'm grateful today for such a rich narrative (and so many glorious photos!) of your time in Wales! Thank you so much, Tanya.